Wagyu Beef Burgers At Tony Roma's

Story & Photos by DR SALT & MADAM PEPPER

Ever since we relocated to Malaysia, the occasional craving for that American diner classic – the burger – has had us scouring different parts of the Klang Valley in search of an offering that satisfies the tummy, pleases the palate, and tantalizes the taste buds to the point of craving for more.

While we have not made a fully extensive tour of what there is to offer, rediscovering the burger scene in Kuala Lumpur and Petaling Jaya has been a, well, tasty experience.

First, came the visits to the fast food joints. Then came the exploration of food stalls. A number of times, we ate at some decent diners though it was at an upcoming burger showcase that returns to the Klang Valley for the second time, that we discovered what taking a humble American classic to the next level is all about.

This food review was conducted at TonyRoma's outlet at The Curve.

The family restaurant chain TonyRoma's is bringing back its popular Wagyu beef burgers in a promotion starting April 11 and ending on June 5. This promotion will feature the return of three Wagyu burgers and the introduction of two new ones, as well as two weight- and health-friendly salads.

TonyRoma's is also offering its milkshakes, in vanilla, chocolate and strawberry flavours, at half price with any purchase of the Wagyu beef burgers

The meat is flown in from Australia and with a higher marbling ratio than American prime beef, a higher ratio of monounsaturated to saturated fats as well as an abundance of Omega-3 and -6 fatty acids, this turns out to be not only a tastier, but a healthier option as well.

We had a sneak peek of what to expect at a dinner recently. Two new burgers have been added to the menu – a move meant to further tempt diners, who have helped to make it so popular that it is said to have added a neat 10% to revenue.

When there is no such promotion under way, TonyRoma's patrons have asked for the regular burgers to be substituted with Wagyu beef so many times that the chain is considering adding a permanent option that allows diners to swap their burger meat for Wagyu, with a slight price mark-up.

We have split the review into two versions – his and hers – to showcase our individual opinions (which don't coincide often!) and to demonstrate the difference between an Eastern palate (hers) and an American approach (his).

TonyRoma's Fiery Cajun Burger.

MADAM PEPPER:
Dinner started with a commendable basket of fried mushrooms.

The Grilled Chicken and Roasted Vegetable Salad (RM29.90) came next. Crispy chopped greens, zucchini, carrots, and juicy roasted red peppers with a creamy vinaigrette dressing was a refresher, crunchy to the bite and juicy to the taste.

I would have preferred a little more charring to the grilled chicken and roasted red peppers. Warmer salads, with a little protein, always add more character to the garden variety combination of lettuce-tomato-cucumber, and this was no different.

When burgers came to the table, being the dyed-in-the-wool spice lover that I am, I zeroed in on the Fiery Cajun Burger (RM34.90) first. This was my first taste of what Wagyu in a burger tasted like – tender, and undeniably juicy. It came with Cajun-seasoned fried onions, a slice of cheddar cheese and a sprinkling of Cajun spices.

TonyRoma's Steakhouse Burger.

Being no stranger to Louisiana-style cooking, I expected more heat in the spice, more tongue-burning in the seasoning. A clever balance between the heat of the spice and the natural juiciness of the Wagyu, heralded this an easy palate-pleaser.

Next up, the new Steakhouse Burger (RM37.90) with a 7oz patty – the standard Wagyu burger size, we are told – came topped with medium-cut beef bacon and sprinkled with crushed rosemary on top. A little cup of steak sauce – which I ignored – came with a large serving of French fries.

It was the RM36.90 Wild Mushroom Havarti Burger that took home the proverbial trophy.

Slathered with freshly fried mushrooms, this one didn't grab the tastebuds with heat or herbs like the previous two. It was a mild burger, but with the nutty flavor and smooth texture of the mushrooms and the understated-ness of Danish Havarti cheese.

TonyRoma's Grilled Chicken and Roasted Vegetable Salad.

DR. SALT:
Being an American I am highly critical when it comes to hamburgers. In my country, they're considered among the few menu items that truly set one restaurant apart from another. Many restaurants have “signature” burgers, with any number of topping combinations you can imagine.

The Wagyu beef is nothing short of amazing. This smooth, juicy, succulent beef has a flavor that is not overpowering. I was surprised by the use of Havarti cheese to top three of the burgers, while the other two were topped with the common classic for burger-fare; cheddar.

TonyRoma's Wild Mushroom Havarti Burger.

Both burgers I sampled were laden with generous amounts of rich, smooth, slightly buttery Havarti cheese that complimented the texture and flavor of the meat in an entirely unexpected but very satisfying way.

About the only things I would change if I were serving these delectable burgers to friends would be the sauce that accompanied the Steakhouse Burger. It seemed more suited as a topping for potatoes than a classic, tangy steak sauce and perhaps a bit more char to the outsides of the patties themselves as I love the taste of grilled meat.